The Pioneers

Coconut Grove is the oldest neighborhood in Miami. It was founded by white settlers from the northern United States and Black settlers from the Bahamas who were drawn to the promise of this lush frontier. In 1882, Charles Peacock opened the Peacock Inn near the bayfront. One of his first workers was a Bahamian by the name of Mariah Brown who built a home which remains standing to this day. Other Bahamians soon joined the inn’s workforce, and built houses nearby, establishing a distinct Black community in the Grove called Kebo.1

Peacock Inn – Coconut Grove, Florida. 1880 (circa). State Archives of Florida, Florida Memory.

Mariah Brown House, 3298 Charles Avenue, Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

3298 Charles Ave, Mariah Brown House Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

After Mariah Brown, the second landowner of Bahamian descent in Coconut Grove was Daniel William Anderson, grandfather of Mrs. Thelma Gibson, who got the deed to 3326 Charles Avenue in 1895.2 He worked for Commodore Ralph Munroe. Commodore Monroe came to Coconut Grove from New York in the early 1880s and built a house that came to be known as the Barnacle. It is now the Barnacle Historic State Park, offering, “a glimpse of frontier life during the Era of the Bay, when all travel to and from Miami was by sea”.3

Barnacle Historic State Park, 3485 Main Hwy, Miami, Florida. 2024. Photo by Aarti Mehta-Kroll

Barnacle Historic State Park, 3485 Main Hwy, Miami, Florida. 2024. Photo by Aarti Mehta-Kroll

A short walk from the Barnacle, near the corner of Main Highway and Charles Avenue stands Stirrup House. Made from now extinct Dade County pine, the home was built by Ebenezer Woodberry Franklin Stirrup, a migrant from the Bahamas. He arrived in Key West as a teenager and made his way to Coconut Grove where he worked for white homesteaders who paid him in land4. As he accumulated property, Stirrup built homes that he sold to other Bahamian arrivals in Coconut Grove creating a generation of property owners.

E.W.F Stirrup House, 3242 Charles Avenue Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

E.W.F Stirrup House Historic Marker Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

In the 1920s, George Merrick decided he wanted to use his land to build a new city that would be guided by the principles of the city beautiful movement. To realize his vision for what would come to be known as Coral Gables, Merrick hired Bahamian stonemasons skilled at working with locally available coral rock.5 In the mid-1920s, Merrick moved his workers to the outskirts of Coral Gables, east of U.S. 1, in an area bordering Coconut Grove. The residents of these two neighborhoods, Golden Gate and the McFarlane Homestead, melded into the growing Bahamian and African American community of the Grove.6

Plaque on the Lola B. Walker Community Center commemorating the pioneer families of the Golden Gate and MacFarlane Homestead 218 Florida Ave, Coral Gables. 2024. Photo by Aarti Mehta-Kroll

When Coconut Grove was first settled it was unique in that it lacked the deep racial divides characteristic of much of the Jim Crow South. Most notably Black and white people worshipped together at Union Chapel, now known as Plymouth Congregational Church.7 Desiring to have a Church where they were free to “clap their hand, Amen, Hallelujah and Praise God,” a group of 56 parishioners, led by Reverend Samuel A. Sampson, left Plymouth to form what is now known as Macedonia Missionary Baptist Church. The two institutions continue to maintain close ties.

Plymouth Congressional Church, 3400 Devon Rd, Miami, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

Exterior of Macedonia Missionary Baptist Church, 3515 Douglas Road, Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

In 1925, Coconut Grove was annexed by the city of Miami and the strictures of the Jim Crow era’s segregationist policies began to affect the neighborhood. Most notably, within a year of the annexation, the City of Miami constructed a massive trash incinerator in Coconut Grove a thousand feet away from school for the areas Black children. The incinerator, nicknamed “Old Smokey,” spewed ash and smoke over the neighborhood, with embers sometimes setting alight the roofs of homes and trees.8 During the 44 years it was in operation, the smoke, ash and smell from the incinerator greatly diminished the quality of life, health and wellbeing of those who lived in the neighborhood.9 Adding to the area’s difficulties was a lack of city-supported sanitation and waste disposal services, a situation that only began to change in the early 1950s.10

A woman sitting in Armbrister Park at 4000 Grand Ave, with a view of the City of Miami Fire Department Fire College (formerly the “Old Smokey” trash incinerator). Coconut Grove, Florida. 2022. Photo by Nicole Combeau. FIU Libraries dPanther Repository

2014 Film:“Old Smokey: A Community History”produced by the University of Miami Center for Ethnics and Public Service Oral History Film Project.

Despite these externally imposed hardships, the community flourished. Children found creative ways to play and spend time together as indicated by Antoinette Price’s recollection of her childhood, “We just, we had fun. It wasn’t as many homes there so we had little alleys we used to go through, we used to beat out a path. And we would run through the alleys, and climb trees and make some of our toys, coca cola bottle toys, put the hairpin in the top with the little straw and do the hair. A lot of things we played I don’t see today like springboard and the see saw. All these we made ourselves because for Christmas we got usually a pair of union five skates and a bicycle. That’s all you got. And that wasn’t for each child, that was for all of us. So as it were now we’d break up the skate and make up a scooter. And then we took turns riding the bicycle.”11

2010 Film: “West Coconut Grove: Past, Present and Future”produced by the University of Miami Center for Ethnics and Public Service Oral History Film Project.

With its residential character, Coconut Grove and Coral Gables had some of the features of suburban life, but they were also unique in the close social bonds people in the community shared. This was not only because, multiple generations of the same families lived in the same neighborhood, but it was also due to a shared sense of responsibility people felt for each other. Eloyse Jennings described this as follows in the film West Grove Past, Present, Future, “People loved each other, we had a wealth of respect for each other.” This love and respect translated into people looking out for each other’s children and showing consideration to all members of the community. Thelma Gibson described this communal etiquette as follows, “Back in the day, everybody sitting on their porch, and we had to go down and say good morning to whoever was out. And coming back, it would be good afternoon. We spoke and everybody spoke to you.”12

Parents who would be away at work did not have to worry about their children because there was always someone looking out for them. To emphasize this aspect of communal child rearing, many in the Grove invoke the African proverb popularized by Hilary Clinton “It takes a village to raise a child”. Federicka Brown remembers that “If someone saw us doing something out of the way and they had no telephones, no connect, just no cell phones. But do you know when you got home, our parents knew what we did wrong because someone had notified them that we did something wrong out of the ordinary. It was like a family. And I just cannot say the word bonding together that help us grew up as young women and young men in our community because we had a concern of everyone in the community and everyone knew each other.”13

While the neighborhood has changed a lot since these early years, the sense of community remains. This becomes obvious as one gets to know the plethora of active social groups in the neighborhood that are working to keep the community safe, strong and beautiful.

1 Dunn, Marvin. (1997). Black Miami in the Twentieth Century. Gainesville, FL: University Press of Florida.

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2 Vizcaya Museum (2020). Black Landowner in 1895 | Black Grove Conversations. Vizcaya Museum and Gardens Website, July 23 https://vizcaya.org/blackgrove/ 21 November 2024.

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3 Florida State Parks Website https://www.floridastateparks.org/parks-and-trails/barnacle-historic-state-park/history 22 November 2024.

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4 Vizcaya Museum (2021). The Rich and Forgotten History of Black Coconut Grove podcast Episode 1. Vizcaya Museum and Gardens Website, https://vizcaya.org/blackgrovepodcast/ 21 November 2024.

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6 Fallon, Maria Rosa Higgs. (2015). “Bahamian Settlers and the Building of Coral Gables,” Coral Gables Community News, November 1, https://communitynewspapers.com/coral-gables-news/bahamian-settlers-and-the-building-of-coral-gables/ 2 March 2022.

National Register of Historic Places Registration Form for the MacFarlane Historic Homestead District accessed via the National Park Service website on 2 March 2023. https://www.nps.gov/subjects/nationalregister/database-research.htm

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7 Publication commemorating the 125th anniversary of the Macedonia Missionary Baptist Church of Miami.

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8 Madigan, Nick. (2013). “In the Shadow of ‘Old Smokey,’ a Toxic Legacy,” The New York Times, September 22, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/23/us/old-smokey-is-long-gone-from-miami-but-its-toxic-legacy-lingers.html 2 March 2023.

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9 “Old Smokey: A Community History” produced by the University of Miami School of Law https://www.law.miami.edu/academics/centers-institutes/ceps/programs-projects/oral-history-film-project/index.html 2 March 2023.

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10 “Bathroom Civilization Enters Miami Suburb,” The Chicago Defender (National edition) (1921-1967); Apr 30, 1949; ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Black Newspaper Collection, pg. 3

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11 Antoinette Price in University of Miami (2010). West Coconut Grove: Past, Present and Future https://www.law.miami.edu/academics/centers-institutes/ceps/programs-projects/oral-history-film-project/index.html 23 November 2024.

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12 Thelma Gibson interviewed by Adams, Janiah (2017). “How do we Safeguard the Grove?” The Miami Times, August 2 https://www.miamitimesonline.com/news/land-owned-by-black-grovites-to-become-active-and-spark-commerce-on-grand-avenue/article_5ddbfdae-7791-11e7-ade9-cf9808e0443b.html 25 November 2024.

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13 Gibson, Thelma V.A. and Fredericka Brown (2022). “Commons for Justice Project” Interview by M. Brown, N. Guevara and A. Mehta-Kroll. 2022. 30 May http://dpanther.fiu.edu/dpanther/items/itemdetail?bibid=FI24022201&vid=00001 17 January 2023.

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